Greetings!

As you can see, I am new to the site. Thanks for the moderators and Joel for doing such a great job to keep the quality of this forum at such a high level.

I need some advice from some of you 642 experts! A couple of months ago I purchased a 642 (with lasergrips) for my wife. Last weekend we finally had a chance to shoot it (I know! I know!).

It shot well for the first 50 rounds or so and then the cylinder starting getting "sticky" and not rotating freely. It finally got to the point where my wife could no longer fire the gun.

I thought it was due to powder build up and a good cleaning would set things right. Not so. While the cylinder does spin a bit easier now after a thorough cleaning it will still not spin freely. I could also not see any way to take the cylinder apart to try and clean the center raceway.

Anyone experienced this before with their 642? I will likely take it back to the store this weekend.

Thanks!

David

Very easy to remove the cylinder on a S&W. With a good fitting screwdriver (so you don't mar the screw) remove the screw on the RH side of the gun that is farthest forward. With this screw out, and the cylinder open, the crane can be slid right out and the cylinder will be in your hand. The spindle is probably dirty. It can be cleaned and lightly oiled and should solve your problem.

Thanks for the info Ron. I will give it a shot when I get home tonight!

David

If you take the screw out with the cylinder open, she'll fall right of the gun so be careful not to do that. (One of life's experiences others shouldn't have to repeat.) Also, when you put the cylinder back into the gun, be careful when closing the cylinder so as not to mar your finish.

If you get the urge to pop the side cover off, think twice unless you're familiar with the innards of guns. That aluminum cover can also be sprung as well as marred pretty badly if you try to pry it off with a screw driver. Cleaning and lubing under that plate, though, does wonders for the trigger (after about 1500 dry fires).

Mark

Never pry any side plate on a S&W revolver, aluminum or carbon steel, you will mar it.

If you feel the need to remove the side plate, remove the screws with a correct fitting screwdriver. Hold in the revolver parallel to your work bench tap the grip area and area around the plate, not on the plate, with a plastic mallet, plastic screwdriver handle, or similar, but not with a brass or steel hammer. The plate will pop loose and now you will see that there is a small tab on the upper/forward part of the plate. When you reassemble, you will insert that small tab and pivot the plate back into position.

Do a search on the internet on S&W and side plate removal, you should get some hits. Don't do like others I have seen, the plate fits very tightly and just getting a screwdriver tip even close to the plate will mar it. Tap the area around the plate with something like even a leather mallet, but a plastic screwdriver handle or plastic mallet will work fine.

I absolutely disagree with "it's dirt" theory.

I encountered similar "stickiness" myself with my 642 every time I shot it.

It starts close to the 50th round. First the cylinder gets hard to get out to remove spent shells, then it would not turn at all.

Here's the deal. Nothing is perfect. To get some, one has to give up some. 642 was designed to be small (~2 inch barrel), light (titanium alloys), compact (short grip, no exposed hammer) and a weapon for a close fight that lasts 5 rounds of .38.

The gun does not have enough material to dissipate heat rapidly and it also has a steel drum and a steel barrel in contact with a titanium frame. Steel and titanium heat up unequally. So the hot "expended" drum and the barrel sit in a "cold" tight frame literally stuck to each other.

Take the same revolver in all steel and there'll be no issue.

Here's what I do. I bring multiple guns to the range where 642 is shot 5 rounds at a time mixed with shooting other guns, so 642 has plenty of time to cool down.

Again 642 is not a target practice gun, it's just a good light, conceilable revolver for up-to 5 yard , 5 shot self defense.

[quote="bigval"]I absolutely disagree with "it's dirt" theory.

I encountered similar "stickiness" myself with my 642 every time I shot it.

It starts close to the 50th round. First the cylinder gets hard to get out to remove spent shells, then it would not turn at all.

Here's the deal. Nothing is perfect. To get some, one has to give up some. 642 was designed to be small (~2 inch barrel), light (titanium alloys), compact (short grip, no exposed hammer) and a weapon for a close fight that lasts 5 rounds of .38.

The gun does not have enough material to dissipate heat rapidly and it also has a steel drum and a steel barrel in contact with a titanium frame. Steel and titanium heat up unequally. So the hot "expended" drum and the barrel sit in a "cold" tight frame literally stuck to each other.

Take the same revolver in all steel and there'll be no issue.

Here's what I do. I bring multiple guns to the range where 642 is shot 5 rounds at a time mixed with shooting other guns, so 642 has plenty of time to cool down.

Again 642 is not a target practice gun, it's just a good light, conceilable revolver for up-to 5 yard , 5 shot self defense. [URL=http://smiliesftw.com]


While you have a good theory, he is talking about having problems after a good cleaning and the cylinder is still hard to rotate. I'm with the cleaning crowd,however I clean mine with Kroil. I don't disassemble my revolvers as I've seen the results when someone thinks they are a gunsmith.If spent powder and whatever else got into the pivot area Kroil or any other penetrating oil will get it out. Patience!

Yes, cleaning 642 is someting...

The finish on the frame is clearcoat, it is somewhat fragile, scratches easily. I found some blemishes under the grips.

Also as a part of the maintanence one has to make sure all the screws are tight. I once lost the upper rear-most screw ( after a rough shooting session) and it took a gunsmith 2 weeks to get a replacement. I made him Loc-Tite all the screws for the future.

When I clean 642, I do not remove the cylinder, however I remove the spur as there is some gunk accumulating under it. And of course the lasergrips have to come off for the cleaning so not to damage the emmiter.